The Traditional Battle of Toqto

Upon returning to Peru at the beginning of December, I had to hit the ground running - literally. I had rushed back as I needed to witness and document the traditional battle of Toqto that takes place on December 8th each year. I would be running from and dodging rocks and projectiles being hurled. 

After returning to Cusco, I unpacked my bags, immediately repacked them with my photo equipment and left for the community of Huinchiri. It is a stunning drive through the lakes district and finishes at the Q’eswachaka rope bridge that spans the canyon of the Apurimac River. There was little time to stop and appreciate it for long though, as I needed to get up the mountain to where the battle occurs.

The luchas (fights) take place on the altiplano (high plain) below Toqto Mountain, which is situated on the border of the Canas and Chumbivilcas provinces. Sitting at about 4,400 metres (14,500 feet) the air is thin. I was unable to take the time to adjust to the altitude upon my return, so the climb up was a chore. It is a very remote, vast and barren area that is difficult to access. 

Upon arrival, there were few people to be seen. Then, as I scanned the plains, people began to appear on the horizon, and suddenly, people were visible coming from all directions across the seemingly endless grasslands and up the mountainside. 

The women come dressed in some of their finest traditional clothing that is elaborate and vibrant. The vividly coloured clothing of the women now stood out against the monotone landscape and stark sky.

Men come wearing a variety of clothing. Some wear the traditional clothing of their community that is also colourful and vibrant, while others wear leather coats and sombreros to appear fierce. Others come wearing big, puffy winter coats to reduce the impact of the rocks that will soon rain down on them. 

Crowds begin to form on opposing sides of the altiplano, with people from Canas on one side and those of Chumbivilcas on the other. Things begin slowly as groups of men huddle and begin to share large bottles of beer and pass around cañazo (a high-alcohol drink made from sugar cane juice) to fortify themselves and build up their courage in preparation for battle. Music begins to be played, and songs are sung. 

The women dance in small groups in their beautiful, attractive clothing with smiles on their faces will perhaps attract the attention of a combatant who proves himself worthy. In part, the festivity serves as an opportunity to meet a potential mate. 

As the cañazo and beer flows, the songs become a little louder and more energetic. Then, jeers begin to be hurled across the altiplano at the opposing side, taunting their opponents and questioning their manhood. Men on horseback ride out to challenge and take note of the numbers and positioning of their adversaries. 

As the women and other spectators position themselves behind small rock barricades, the men begin to fan out in groups across the landscape to confront their foes. They will challenge each other at close range with two weapons, one in each hand.

The first are huaracas, which are a type of sling to hurl rocks with, which they can do accurately and with incredible force. They were traditionally used for hunting and in war. The Spanish conquistadors reported that an Inca huaraca was capable of breaking a sword in two or killing a horse. 

The other weapon that is used is a whip with a piece of metal that is fastened to the tip, preferably something heavy, that will do damage. The pieces of metal used are often commonplace items like large nuts or bolts and padlocks, but the most common and preferred are bicycle gear sprockets. This is serious stuff and they are not messing around. 

The battle goes on for some time, often hours, as the to and fro occurs, trying to push back their opponent and take their land. Men are badly injured and have to be carried from the battlefield. Their spilled blood is seen as a good sign that will fertilize the land and is a sacrifice to Pachamama (Mother Earth) that will bring about a good harvest and prosperity for the people. Sometimes men even die. 

These same lands were the training grounds for the rebellions led by Tupac Amaru against the Spanish in the 18th Century. These men are the descendants of those who fought against the colonial invaders hundreds of years ago. The tradition has carried on ever since and helps to keep the spirit of resistance alive in the culture. It also keeps the young men battle-ready, strong, and courageous. 

It is a truly fierce battle, and they do not hold back, and everyone is fair game. I wear a helmet and try my best to be aware and stay safe, but taking risks is essential if I want to properly document the topics I am covering and get the photos. On this occasion, I was struck by a rock in the fighting and had to pull back from the frontline relatively early in the battle. Luckily, it was in the leg, so nothing serious. It gave me a good scare, though, as I hobbled back up the hill to a safe distance from the projectiles.  

As I watched the battle ensue, the sky grew ominously darker. Then, a flash of lightning splits the sky and is followed by a massive, booming crack of thunder. It is as if Illapa, the Inca god of thunder, lightning, and war, has looked down to see the battle and has acknowledged the sacrifice being made. Then he unleashes a torrent of steady, solid hail that declares the battle over. 

People retreat to their respective sides where the day began, covering themselves with blankets and plastic ponchos. There is nowhere to escape up here on the altiplano. We all have to wait it out. 

After about half an hour, the hail finally begins to ease and then gradually subsides. People slowly come out from under their temporary shelters and begin to smile. Music begins to play, beer is shared, and the people begin to dance and sing in celebration of a successful battle. 

Pachamama is pleased with the reciprocity and respect that has been shown. It is declared that it was a good battle.